Nut trees are among the best of our multi-purpose trees. Not only do they make fine shade and ornamental trees, but they also provide timber and a crop of valuable nuts. 

Careful thought should be given in choosing between grafted or seedling trees. If one or two trees is being planted, consider the grafted tree. Grafted trees are produced to duplicate the selections that have the best flavor, production, cracking quality, and filling of the kernel. Grafted trees come into bearing at an early age, sometimes within two or three years. It is just as important to plant grafted nut trees as it is to plant grafted fruit trees. Seedling trees have variable characteristics and usually begin to bear in four to eight years. Hazel seedlings often bear by the second or third year. Since most of our seedlings are grown from superior parents, chances are good that something superior will result. 

PLANTING AND CULTURAL REQUIREMENTS

Planting and cultural requirements are similar to practices followed for other fruit and ornamental trees. Plant in a well drained site with the root collar just below the surface. Use good topsoil and tamp it firmly around the roots. Protect the roots from drying sun and wind while preparing the hole. Water well after planting. Prune the top about one fifth to promote vigor. Control of weeds and other competition in a two meter yard) circle is very important for at least the first five years. A mulch is beneficial.

Generally two or more different cultivars are needed for cross pollination. This means that two grafted Grimo 112X chestnuts will not cross pollinate since they are identical twins. For cross pollination, two seedling trees or two different cultivars will be needed. 

Spacing requirements vary with the type and age of tree. Persian walnut, butternut, hickory, heartnut and chestnut should be planted about 12m (40 ft) apart; black walnut, and pecan 15m (50 ft) apart; hazels and 'alpricots' (sweet kernelled apricots) 5 to 6m (18 ft) apart. Plant trees at 6m (20 ft) spacing to get early production and then thin trees later when crowded. 

Nut trees should be planted in good, well drained soil. Drainage is more critical than soil type, though chestnuts prefer a sandy loam. 

Chestnuts do best with a soil pH of 4.5 to 6; black walnuts, heartnuts, hazels, butternuts, hickories and persian walnuts, 6 to 7. 

Fertilize with a cup of bonemeal mixed in the soil at planting time. Do not use granular fertilizer in the first year. Use a concentrated water soluble 20-20-20 solution in 3 applications 2 weeks apart to June 30. In the second year, use three cups of 20-10-10 granular fertilizer, one in each of mid-April, May and June. Increase the amount annually, continuing with the three applications. A soil test will give specific recommendations, but if a bearing tree is making less than 10 cm (4") of growth, increase the rate. Do not feed after June 30th, as the trees may not harden properly for winter. 

Planted in small numbers, nut trees would require little spraying. By keeping infected nuts and debris picked up, disease spread can be minimized. If a serious problem occurs, contact your local agriculture agent for information and suitable controls.

written by © Ernie Grimo of Grimo Nut Nursery

I will add a footnote on pruning, as I will be writing on that subject soon. Mr. Grimo did not go into the subject because small trees need none, and larger trees only some -- or none at all. The old myth of pruning fruit trees to compensate for root loss or to 'even out' the crown -- is simply a myth. One can and should prune to remove broken, rubbing branches or bad crotches, but I recommend removing no more than a fifth of the branches. Prune the other 'problems' out the next year or the following summer.

Herb Senft